backpacking
beach
British Columbia
Canada
hiking
Wilderness Therapy on the Juan de Fuca Trail in British Columbia
1/04/2025The Juan de Fuca Trail in British Columbia, my first solo backpacking, had truly a therapeutic effect on me. The connection with nature, campfire conversations with fellow hikers, and enduring physical challenges were exactly what I needed as I was going through many changes in my personal life. The numbers for this trail can't do them justice, but I’ll try anyway: 47 km over 4 days and 3 nights, a total elevation gain and loss of 1,800 m, 441 floors climbed, and 3,700 calories burned on average per day. The level of happiness: insane.
The Juan de Fuca Marine Trail stretches in a narrow strip along the Pacific coast from Botanical Beach near Port Renfrew to China Beach near Jordan River.
The trail was built in 2001 as part of the Trans Canada Trail system. Initially, the trail was designed to provide an accessible route for hikers. At the time of its construction, the trail featured numerous wooden platforms and boardwalks that traversed the wet and muddy areas, making it a relatively easy and comfortable hike.
However, after years of popular use and limited maintenance, the Juan de Fuca Trail has evolved into a more rugged and challenging path. Many of its original features, including the wooden platforms and boardwalks, have rotted or disappeared over time, leaving the trail in a much more rustic state.
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Unlike the West Coast Trail, the Juan de Fuca Trail does not require advance camping reservations. Instead, hikers are expected to pay a $10 daily fee using an honour system, depositing their payment in designated boxes along the trail.
I think the Juan de Fuca Trail is a haven for those who are into wildlife. It's not uncommon for hikers to spot sea lions swimming along the shore or even catch a glimpse of whales breaching in the distance. However, the trail is also home to the black bear. With a relatively high chance of spotting one, hikers should remain alert. The abundance of bear poop along the trail keeps reminding you that you're not alone in this magical wilderness.
In case you’re wondering, no, I didn’t see any bear, but yes, I was making noise by clapping or screaming, especially in areas with dense bushes or near a cliff where waves can get loud. It feels a bit uncomfortable and even crazy to do so, but better safe than sorry.
The Juan de Fuca Trail was my first experience camping on a beach and it was a total blast! The best part was listening to stories from other fellow hikers at a campfire.
At night, tidal waves were so loud, I woke up despite being super tired after a long day hike. The most important aspect to remember is to pitch your tent above a high tide line, otherwise, you can get washed out to an open sea at night.
My journey began with an early morning hiker shuttle from Victoria to Port Renfrew, followed by a short hike to the Botanical Beach trailhead.
I spent some time at the beach exploring numerous tide pools and harassing (in a good way) sea anemones.
I guess these cute animals didn’t mind me putting my finger inside its mouth. At least they didn’t say anything. From there, I embarked on a four-day journey to China Beach.
The first day was a baptism by fire: a brutal 22 km / 13 miles to East Sombrio Beach, where I found myself amidst a crowd of surfers. It was chaotic and hard to find a spot to pitch my tent, but the scenery was breathtaking. As I settled into my tent, surrounded by other tents, I felt a sense of community and safety.
The second day was a welcome respite, with only 6 km / 4 miles to Chin Beach. However, the terrain was the most difficult with scrambling and navigating lots of mud.
On the third day, I hiked 19 km / 12 miles with two fellow hikers, one from New Zealand, another one from Wales, and the time went by quickly while enjoying the scenery and our conversations.
That night, I camped at Mystic Beach and shared a campfire with six other fellow hikers: two my hiking companions you already know of.
Then, there was a young couple from Ottawa and a single man in his 50s from Victoria regretting that he spent too much money on smoking, drinking, and partying, otherwise he would have bought and already paid off a house.
And finally, there was a slim young lady from rural Quebec who spent a few months picking strawberries on a farm in BC, and travelling on the trail with only a jar of peanut butter and a few slices of bread! I would not say she was starving, but she was definitely appreciative of having some food some of us chipped in. Including my cod liver.
On my last morning, I decided not to wait for my 6 pm hiker shuttle bus, and instead hitchhiked to Victoria with a young couple. What? Why not?
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