I firmly believe that train travel is the best way to experience Canada. This flagship train from VIA Rail offers exceptional service, on-site chefs preparing fresh delicious meals, diverse entertainment options, and breathtaking views of top destinations just outside the window. From vibrant cities like Toronto, Winnipeg, and Vancouver to the rugged Canadian Shield, endless Prairie skies, majestic Rockies, and lush British Columbia rainforests, this train route showcases the very best of Canada.

Train travel offers a rare chance to embrace slow travel in a world that's increasingly fast-paced and interconnected. Our recent trip highlighted this contrast: it took us only five hours to fly from Toronto to Vancouver, yet the return journey was four nights and five days. The Canadian is designed to help you unwind and enjoy the scenery, rather than simply getting from point A to point B.

The Canadian offers a nostalgic taste of luxurious travel from a bygone era before jet planes and cars became the norm. Its sleek, futuristic design pays tribute to the era when trains ruled the Rockies and Canada's vast landscapes. The Canadian is even featured on the back of Canada's $10 bill.

Your experience starts right at a station where you can check your bags and a friendly porter will deliver it right to your room. 

Food is included for all sleeper-class passengers, but to call it just food would be a huge understatement. The Canadian offers a fine-dining restaurant on board, with two chefs serving up a diverse menu that changes with each meal. 

Choose from four mains, a selection of soups and salads, and two desserts. Did I tell you that their carrot cake and key lime pie are the best I have ever tried?

With a new menu each day, the dining experience on board is always exciting. VIA Rail's commitment to local flavours means passengers can enjoy regional specialties, such as British Columbia's Pacific Salmon and Alberta's juicy beef sirloin. Even for someone like myself who isn’t a huge fan of steaks, the Alberta sirloin was a heavenly treat that quite literally melted in my mouth.

Alcohol and sodas are extra unless you are in the most expensive, Prestige class, but somehow VIA Rail found a way to offer daily free drinks for all sleeper-class passengers. We enjoyed welcome champagne in Vancouver and Jasper, wine tasting in Saskatchewan, and beer tasting in Ontario.

Sleeper-class passengers enjoy 24-hour access to a selection of coffee, tea, hot chocolate, cookies, and fresh fruits.

Despite being 70 years old, the train shows off a luxurious amenity - private toilets in most sleeping compartments. On the downside, the toilets frequently freeze because the pipes have become too thin from extensive use over the years. 

One more luxurious touch: every sleeper car has a shower. How cool is that? Plus, passengers in sleeper cars receive a thoughtful goodies bag that includes two towels, shampoo, body lotion, earplugs, and dark chocolate. 

The beds are surprisingly spacious and comfortable for a train. Every evening, around dinner time, the porters carefully make them up and then convert them back into seating areas during breakfast. Although the beds are heavy and require some force to operate, they're clearly built to last.

Many wonder if Wi-Fi is available on board. The answer is no, but VIA Rail is looking into installing Starlink, which would provide passengers with internet access throughout a four-day journey.

Let me share a little bit of the history of The Canadian. Transcontinental passenger service in Canada dates back to the late 1880s with the construction of the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR). However, it wasn't until April 24, 1955, that the train called The Canadian made its inaugural run, providing a modern and efficient travel option between East and West.

To make it happen, CPR had placed a huge order with the Budd Company in Philadelphia for 173 stainless steel cars, the largest order the manufacturer had ever received.

The post-WWII era saw a surge in tourism across Canada and the United States, making it an ideal time to launch the new train. Nevertheless, the rail industry's momentum was short-lived, as it soon faced stiff competition from jet planes and cars.

The Trans-Canada Highway completed in 1962 proved to be the last nail in the coffin, allowing people to drive across the Rocky Mountains without having to take a train.

By 1970, The Canadian was operating at a loss prompting CPR to appeal to the Federal Government to discontinue the service. The government declined but agreed to cover 80% of the losses, keeping the train on track.

In 1978, the federal government stepped in to address the financial struggles plaguing the country's passenger rail services. Looking at the recent US experience, they established VIA Rail Canada, a crown corporation that consolidated passenger train services nationwide, helping to ensure their continued operation.

At the time VIA took over, there were two transcontinental daily passenger services: The Canadian, operated by CPR between Toronto, Vancouver, and Montreal through Regina, Calgary, and Banff, and the Super Continental, operated by Canadian National (CN) between the same cities but via a slightly northern route through Saskatoon, Edmonton, and Jasper.

Initially, VIA Rail operated both routes. Following the major service cut in 1990, the company continued to run only the northern route, linking Toronto and Vancouver via Saskatoon, Edmonton, and Jasper. The Super Continental was rebranded as The Canadian, with the original CPR cars continuing to operate, albeit on CN tracks.

The Canadian runs twice weekly, travelling 4,466 km / 2,775 miles over five days and four nights. The journey takes approximately 92 hours eastbound and 97 hours westbound. Due to recurring delays of up to 18 hours, VIA Rail adjusted the schedule from the original four-day, three-night trip to the current extended timeframe.

If you’re curious why wouldn’t a passenger train be more punctual, the answer is very simple and sad. Freight trains, which can be up to 2 miles long and generate substantial revenue, are typically given priority on single tracks. This means passenger trains often have to wait.

The crew changes in Winnipeg, but every member we met was exceptionally friendly and dedicated to ensuring a fantastic passenger experience. Many crew members come from families with a long history of railroading, making their work a true passion.

The Canadian train set can be anywhere between 13 and 22 cars, depending on the season. While summer is the peak travel period, with higher prices to match, I prefer winter for train travel. The views are just as spectacular, and I enjoy sipping coffee or wine in a cozy chair while taking in the snow-covered landscapes and frozen lakes.

Every train has two locomotives, each weighing 260 tonnes. While one is sufficient to pull the entire train set, the second provides redundancy. This ensures that passengers won't be stranded in the middle of nowhere without electricity or heat if the primary locomotive fails.

The Canadian train typically includes at least one baggage car, one coach car, five sleeper cars, and two Skyline cars. The train also features a dining car, a Prestige-class sleeper car, and a Park car. In the past, VIA Rail operated Panorama cars on the short segment between Vancouver and Edmonton, offering breathtaking views through their huge glass domes. However, maintenance constraints have led to their discontinuation.

Beyond shipping boxes and parcels, the baggage car offers some unique transportation options. It can accommodate up to 17 canoes, perfect for northern Ontario's outdoor enthusiasts. You can also transport a casket with your late relative for funeral services. Furthermore, domestic animals like cats, dogs, chickens, goats, and cows are allowed from fall to spring, excluding summer months due to heat concerns.

What happens if you're a hunter who has killed a moose and needs to transport it home? VIA Rail is at your disposal: you can take your two-tonne animal on the train, provided you've properly wrapped all the pieces and antlers.

What if you're in the middle of nowhere but close to the train tracks/? No problem! The Canadian can pick up and drop off passengers and parcels anywhere, as long as you request the stop 24 hours in advance. This service is a lifeline for people living in isolated areas, who rely on the train to deliver groceries, visit loved ones, or access medical care.

 

What makes this train very cool are the Skyline cars, featuring a glass observation dome on the second floor. This offers breathtaking views in both directions, rivalling those enjoyed by the train engineer.

But among all the cars on the train, the Park car clearly stands out. It’s the very last car of a train set. Inside, you'll find Prestige class sleeper accommodations in the first section, followed by a raised observation dome, a cozy bar, and a bullet lounge offering breathtaking views of the track. This is the ideal place to mingle with fellow passengers over drinks.

Named after famous national and provincial parks, the 18 Park cars were built by Budd, with many of them still in use today. While Prestige class passengers, paying up to $10,000 per room per trip, have exclusive access to the Park cars between 8 am and 4 pm, this restriction is waived during winter months, allowing all sleeper class passengers to enjoy the Park cars.

In addition to car numbers, VIA Rail's sleeper cars are named after notable Canadians. Our car, Lorne Manor, was named in honour of the Marquis of Lorne (1845-1914), Governor General of Canada from 1878 to 1883, during which time the Canadian Pacific Railway was largely completed.

Each sleeper car has six two-person bedroom compartments, four one-person roomettes, and six berths that are converted to seats by day and bunk beds by night. 

Our home for the trip was the lower and upper berths, the most economical sleeping option. Interestingly, one passenger we met preferred the berths to private compartments to which he said “I’m not sleeping over a toliet”.

The train includes at least one coach car for passengers who prefer to sit throughout their journey. While they don’t have access to a dining car, they can buy snacks and drinks onboard. Coach passengers also have a separate Skyline car to enjoy the views from the observation dome.

To keep sleeper-class passengers entertained, the train offers daily activities, plus a selection of books, magazines, puzzles, board games, and movies. We participated in two lively bingo games and attended a couple of informative Railway 101 talks, where we got some insight into the train's operations and the railway signs and signals.

Here are some fun facts we picked up along the way. Canadian railroads are divided into subdivisions, with mileposts marking the distance to the nearest major stop, known as Mile Zero. This is where train crews would historically restock coal and water for steam locomotives. You can still spot one of these massive machines beside the historic Jasper station.

You might wonder why Canadian railroads use miles instead of kilometres. It's for compatibility with US railways and to minimize confusion, as many Canadians, especially older generations, still use miles.

Another fascinating fact is that there are over 120 different signal combinations used in Canadian railroads. These signals, comprising red, yellow, green, and white lights, both solid or flashing, indicate when trains can proceed, slow down, stop, or switch to a side track. To become or remain a train engineer, a person must pass a knowledge test about signals with 100% accuracy every 2-3 years. Given the potential costly or even deadly consequences of a train collision, this rigorous requirement makes sense to me.

Stepping off at Vancouver's Pacific Station, we were immediately greeted by VIA Rail's friendly staff. 

Obviously, the Rocky Mountains is a major draw for people taking this train. 

The scenery is nothing short of spectacular. Especially when the train meets Mount Robson, the tallest peak in British Columbia, and follows the Athabasca River through Jasper National Park.

As we rolled through Hinton, Alberta, I found myself mesmerized by the sinister wood mill production.

The views of Saskatchewan proved to be an unexpected highlight of my journey, rivalling those of the Rocky Mountains.

Upon arriving in Saskatoon, the vibrant orange sunrise and steam-covered buildings offered a clue about the frigid temperatures. My suspicions were confirmed: it was a bone-chilling -32 degrees outside.

As I stared out the window, I marvelled at Saskatchewan's simplistic charm. Refined grain elevators, small buffalo farms, grandiose potash mines, stunning Ukrainian churches, and the best of all - spectacular sunsets.

We arrived in Winnipeg close to midnight and were immediately struck by the majestic Union Station, its dome soaring upwards like a cathedral. I stayed there in awe for a few minutes. 

The Northern Ontario route traverses the boreal forest, characterized by familiar landscapes of rivers, lakes, muskegs, and a mix of evergreen and deciduous trees. This train connects remote communities, many of which are indigenous. One interesting sight stood out: a small hut housing St. Joseph Catholic Church.

About an hour before arriving at Toronto Union Station, the snow suddenly disappears, revealing leafless brown trees. Our railway journey's final stretch runs along the Don River, leading us to the shores of Lake Ontario. Welcome to Toronto! Our epic trans-continental journey aboard The Canadian comes to an end.