Africa
cities
desert
Europe
hiking
history
Middle East
trains
Experience Morocco in Full Colour (Part 3)
8/22/2024
Volubilis (Green).
As we travelled extensively throughout Morocco, we relied heavily on the country's railway network to get us from one city to another. From Marrakesh to Casablanca, Fes, Meknes, and Rabat, the trains proved to be an efficient and relatively affordable way to explore the country.
The train network spans over 2,200 kilometres / 1,350 miles built by the French in the 1900s. We were honestly impressed with the Moroccan train network that provides easy, fast, safe and clean connections between the major cities.
Moroccan railways offer three main types of trains, each catering to different needs and preferences.
The Al Boraq high-speed rail line, opened in 2018, is a game-changer for travel between Tangier and Casablanca and the first high-speed train in Africa. Built by the French that operates the famous TGV, Al Boraq has reduced travel times from 5 hours to just over 2 hours, making it an attractive option for both business travellers and tourists.
We, however, fell in love with the Al Atlas service, refurbished SNCF French trains provide the inter-city service. These trains were the perfect way to observe Moroccan people, one of my favourite pastimes.
The third type of train in Morocco is the local train, which primarily operates within the country's busiest corridor, connecting Casablanca to Kenitra. These trains looked much older and run down.
Back to Volubilis. This place which lies in ruins now because it’s over 2,200 years old, is one of Morocco's most ancient treasures. To get there, we caught a local bus from Meknes where we stayed overnight. The bus journey was a flashback to my own childhood in Ukraine. On the bus, we saw vendors, mostly children, selling chips and candies, while others begged for money. It was striking to see passengers generously supporting these entrepreneurs, as they went about their daily business.
When we arrived in Volubilis, we were amazed at how different this part of Morocco is from Marrakesh or even Casablanca. The air was thick with humidity, and the landscape was lush green. No wonder since this area has a reputation as the most fertile land in Morocco. Enough precipitation has created a haven for agriculture. It also explains why this region has become a prime wine-producing region in Morocco. However, Morocco's wine industry is quite limited (although it’s picking up) due to the country observing Muslim traditions.
The scenery reminds me of Tuscany's rolling hills. It’s very clear to me why the Romans chose this spot for their westernmost city, despite its inland location.
Despite being destroyed by time, Volubilis' remaining ruins are breathtakingly beautiful. Unfortunately, many of its ancient stones were repurposed to build an imperial palace in Meknes during the 17th century, leaving behind only fragments of the original city. Yet, what remains is truly remarkable, particularly the beautiful mosaics that have survived the test of time. These intricate artworks are probably the finest preserved examples in the world.
Back in the Roman Empire times, the city of Volubilis was granted a large autonomy due to its remote location. This decision was welcomed by its people, who were able to govern themselves with extended freedom.
We strolled through the ancient site, taking in the intricate arches and columns, and imagining what life must have been like in this once-thriving city.
This unique blend is reflected in its rich history, architecture, languages, and of course food.
Fes (Turquise).
Fes, one of Morocco's imperial cities, is widely regarded as the most beautiful and authentic.
Its sprawling medina, comprising two separate areas divided by city walls and a Jewish quarter (mellah), is home to approximately 250,000 people.
Fes el-Bali, the larger of the two medinas, is an extraordinary example of a medieval city that has been continuously inhabited for over 1,200 years. It even got the UNESCO World Heritage site designation as "the largest intact and functioning medieval city in the Arab-Muslim world."
Fes’ original buildings, mosques, and monuments remain remarkably intact, offering a glimpse into the past. The city's architecture, culture, and traditions have been preserved and passed down through generations.
What's striking about Fes is how little has changed over the centuries. Electricity, introduced about 100 years ago, is the most significant modernization. Otherwise, daily life continues much as it has for 600-700 years.
Compared to Marrakesh, Fes feels relatively calm. However, I visited it on Friday, and Friday means it’s the Islamic day of rest. So most of the businesses were closed.
The city's narrow streets and numerous green, almost turquoise roofs – likely inspired by the surrounding mountains – contribute to its serene atmosphere.
Fes boasts several notable attractions, including the world-renowned Al-Attarine Madrasa, a prestigious Islamic school.
Dating back to 1323, this place is a Marinid architectural masterpiece. Delicate Zellij tiles on the walls, intricate stone carvings, and finely crafted woodwork - all in sophisticated geometric shapes!
Al-Attarine Madrasa is no longer functioning as a working school and is primarily a historical landmark and tourist attraction now. Although it briefly continued to serve as a religious school after Morocco gained independence in 1956, it eventually stopped educational operations.
Fes also has a surprising gem: a large, beautiful park located between the two medinas called Jnan Sbil Gardens.
The 19th-century Sultan Moulay Hassan I transformed the space between Fes el-Jdid and Fes el-Bali by constructing connecting walls and creating beautiful gardens within those walls. Initially reserved for royalty, these lush grounds were accessible via a secret underground passage to the Royal Palace.
This park's orange grove is a must-see! But don't expect sweet treats – I tried one from a tree and while the orange was juicy but surprisingly sour, more like a lemon!
Historically, Fes was a significant centre for the leather trade due to the influence of Andalusian immigrants, from today’s Spain. Thanks to its history, visitors can experience the city's rich heritage and unique blend of traditions.
Rabat (Navy Blue).
Rabat, the capital of Morocco, is a city with a rich history and cultural significance. If not for a 4-hour layover between the trains we strategically planned to break a long journey between Meknes and Marrakesh, we would have totally skipped Rabat. I’m happy we did not because it’s a beautiful city which is also very different from Marrakesh, Fes, and Casablanca.
The city was founded almost a millennia ago as a fortified city (ribat) to protect the Kingdom of Morocco from Spanish and Portuguese attacks. Its strategic location on the Atlantic coast made it an ideal military outpost. Hence the colour I chose - navy blue because of the ocean.
In 1912, during the French protectorate era, Rabat was chosen as the capital of Morocco, replacing Fes.
The city is home to famous attractions such as the Hassan Tower, a 12th-century minaret, and the Mohammed V Mausoleum, known for its stunning tile work.
The Hassan Tower was intended to be the largest minaret in the world. In 1755, a devastating earthquake struck Lisbon, also affecting Rabat. The unfinished tower suffered significant damage, and the project was abandoned. Today, the Hassan Tower stands 44 metres (144 ft) tall, about half its intended height. Despite never being completed, it remains an iconic symbol of Rabat and Moroccan architecture.
Rabat's modern areas feature sleek skyscrapers, bustling markets, and a blend of Arabic, Berber, and French influences. With a population of over 2 million, Rabat is a vibrant city that seamlessly combines tradition and modernity.
The Grand Théatre of Rabat opened in 2016, is a state-of-the-art performing arts centre hosting a diverse range of cultural events, including concerts, ballets, operas, and theatre productions. Designed by Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid, the futuristic building features smooth, curved lines and stunning architecture.
Another iconic landmark in Rabat is the Mohammed VI Tower, standing 250 meters (820 feet) tall. It is the tallest building in Morocco and the second tallest in Africa.
Unlike other major Moroccan cities, Rabat's economy is not reliant on tourism. I guess, as a government city, it has enough money to take care of itself.
Rabat is also much safer and orderly than, let’s say, Marrakesh. For example, drivers in Rabat stop for pedestrians. We didn’t see any beggars, only people selling napkins and roses for cash.
There is also a considerable presence of law enforcement and even riot police vehicles. I think it’s because Rabat is home to the Moroccan government and royal buildings.
Rabat appears more liberal, with notably fewer women wearing hijabs compared to other cities in Morocco.
Rabat has a rich maritime heritage rooted in its storied past as a haven for seafarers. From the 12th to 17th centuries, Rabat's strategic location on the Atlantic coast made it a key hub for pirates, privateers, and merchants. The city's legendary Salé Republic, a 17th-century corsair state, sent fearless sailors to navigate the Mediterranean and beyond.
It’s a fascinating story which I must tell. The Salé Republic's corsairs had been targeting European shipping, including French vessels, for decades, raiding merchant ships and plundering valuable cargo. They operated in the Strait of Gibraltar, the Mediterranean Sea, the Atlantic coast of Europe, and occasionally even the Caribbean, employing tactics like surprise attacks, boarding, and taking hostages for ransom. This piracy had a significant impact on European shipping, causing economic losses, disrupting trade routes, and spreading fear among sailors and merchants.
Understandingly, European resentment grew, with France feeling particularly threatened by Salé's Republic’s proximity to its Mediterranean ports. European nations viewed it as a rogue state, refusing to acknowledge its sovereignty.
In June 1672, a French fleet of 15 ships, including four men-of-war, sailed into the mouth of the Bou Regreg River, which separates Salé from Rabat. On June 28, 1672, Admiral Duquesne's fleet unleashed a devastating bombardment on both sides of the city, targeting its defences, ships, and infrastructure. The bombardment lasted several days, causing significant damage and destruction. The French response would ultimately weaken the Salé Republic's pirate empire, lead to increased European pressure on North African states, and shape the course of European-North African relations for centuries to come.
What we totally didn’t expect to see in Rabat is a grandiose cathedral - St. Peter's Cathedral.
Built in the early 20th century, it showcases a mix of architectural styles. This blend known as Neo-Mudéjar or Moorish Revival was popular during the French protectorate era (1912-1956) in Morocco and reflects the cultural and historical context of Morocco that combines European and Islamic elements.
0 comments