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Exploring Uncharted Beauty of Alaska's Inside Passage
9/03/2024Alaska, meaning "great country" in one of the native languages, lives up to its name in the breathtaking Inside Passage. For many travellers, their Alaskan adventure begins here, cruising or ferrying through a majestic landscape of over a thousand islands, lush green forests, giant tongues of bright blue glaciers, and snow-capped mountains, frequently covered in white ribbons of fog. To fully appreciate Southeast Alaska’s beautiful waterway, often called a "liquid main street", you should take it slow and allow yourself to be immersed in its striking, untamed nature, abundant wildlife, and liveable coastal communities.
During my transpacific voyage from California to Japan through Alaska, I visited three small communities along the Inside Passage: Ketchikan, Sitka, and Hoonah. With populations of around 9,000, Ketchikan and Sitka are similar in size, ranking just below Anchorage, Fairbanks, and Juneau. However, Sitka stands out as noticeably more affluent and well-maintained compared to the other two. After exploring these towns, I identified nine common observations they all share.
1. Breathtaking Views.
The three communities of Ketchikan, Sitka, and Hoonah are surrounded by the vast Tongass National Forest, which covers over 75% of all Southeast Alaska. This forest is home to the world's largest remaining temperate rainforest.
Spanning nearly 17 million acres, Tongass National Forest protects an incredible landscape featuring numerous islands, an extensive coastline, and a vast network of streams. Its scale and diversity are breathtaking.
If I had to capture Tongass National Forest in a single word, I would choose "drizzle". The forest's consistent and generous precipitation creates a very tranquil atmosphere.
Tongass National Forest is a pristine wilderness with unspoiled old-growth forests, lush vegetation, and abundant wildlife.
Rising above the rainforest, the majestic Coastal Mountains are home to some of the largest glaciers in the world.
Alaska has an astonishing 100,000 glaciers, with only a small fraction - around 600 - having been named. The Hubbard Glacier stands out as the largest and one of the few glaciers still advancing.
Glaciers contain more freshwater than all the world's lakes, rivers, and streams combined. This frozen reservoir is a vital component of our planet's hydrology.
Glacier formation does not happen overnight, it occurs over an extended period of 10 to 100 years. This slow development allows glaciers to grow over time.
So, how can you tell a glacier from a massive pile of snow? The key difference lies in movement: glaciers flow like icy rivers, driven by their own weight, while piles of snow remain still.
The glacier's striking blue hue is caused by ice absorbing all colours except blue, which is reflected back to our eyes. Even in the warmth of summer, the waters Inside Passage close to the glaciers sparkle with icebergs.
On August 6, 2024, a sudden and massive release of water from the Mendenhall Glacier caused severe flooding in downtown Juneau, affecting hundreds of residences and causing significant disruption to the community.
2. Salmon Hatcheries.
Southeast Alaska's economy is primarily driven by the fishing industry followed by healthcare and education.
An interesting fact: Alaska supplies around 50% of all the US's seafood, with Pacific salmon being a favourite choice among seafood lovers.
There are five species of salmon in the region, from the largest to the smallest: King Salmon (Chinook), Red Salmon (Sockeye), Silver Salmon (Coho), Chum Salmon (Dog), and Pink Salmon (Humpy).
Historically, Southeast Alaska was home to many salmon canneries, including one in Hoonah that produced over 150,000 cans annually. However, due to overfishing and declining salmon runs, many canneries, including Hoonah's, closed in the mid-20th century.
So, how can we still enjoy Pacific salmon without paying $100 per pound? The answer is salmon hatcheries.
They supplement wild populations and maintain healthy fish numbers. Unlike traditional animal farming where an animal never leaves the farm, salmon are raised in hatcheries and then released into the ocean, taking advantage of their innate instinct to return to their birthplace.
Remarkably, up to 70% of wild-caught Pacific salmon caught in Alaska originated from hatcheries, clearly demonstrating that we humans are doing something good to nature this time around.
In the wild, no more than 25% of salmon successfully spawn, but hatcheries increase this rate to 95% by fertilizing eggs in a controlled environment. This is achieved by placing eggs and milt in a small tank, ensuring most eggs are fertilized.
Salmon spend 8 out of 12 months in hatcheries, where they're raised in conditions mimicking the wild nature. It’s a big “graduation ceremony” when a full tank with grown-up salmon opens up to the ocean.
To track salmon, hatcheries imprint unique patterns on their ear bones by exposing eggs to varying water levels, simulating natural changes.
Hatcheries only need 4% of released salmon to return and spawn to maintain sustainability but typically around 8% of salmon return. The other 4% are caught and used as food since spawning salmon remains tasty if it does not leave saltwater.
After spawning, dead salmon are processed into pet food. So next time you buy Whiskas with a salmon flavour for your kitty, chances are your beloved pet will enjoy salmon from Alaska.
Meanwhile, carcasses of salmon that died naturally are left on beaches to feed wildlife like bears, ravens, and eagles.
3. Alaska Marine Highway.
The Alaska Marine Highway is a vital transportation artery for Southeast Alaska, offering a chance to enjoy breathtaking views while connecting 30 coastal communities to the outside world. This essential service extends from Bellingham, Washington, near Seattle, to remote Alaskan towns.
The ferry, also known as the "Blue Canoe," travels the Inside Passage, reaching as far as Dutch Harbor in the Aleutian Islands. Its routes go through places with stunning natural beauty, making it a unique and desirable travel experience, in my mind.
For most coastal communities, the ferry is the only way of receiving essentials, including groceries and supplies. Only Haines and Skagway out of all 30 communities have road connections to the outside world, the others depend on the Alaska Marine Highway.
Travel times vary, with the journey from Ketchikan to Prince Rupert, British Columbia, taking 6 hours, while the trip to Bellingham, Washington, would take 36-38 hours, weather permitting.
On board the ferries, passengers get creative with their sleeping arrangements, as there are no staterooms or berths available. To catch some sleep, travellers often set up tents on a deck or cover up in warm blankets.
For smaller communities like Hoonah, the weekly ferry service is a lifeline for grocery shopping. Residents travel in groups and share one vehicle to transport their collective purchases, ensuring everyone gets what they need for a week.
Ketchikan serves as a significant transportation hub with both an international airport and a large ferry terminal. Alaska Airlines offers daily flights to Seattle and Juneau year-round, while Delta provides daily flights to Seattle during the peak summer season.
Despite its small size, Ketchikan experiences a surge in traffic during high season, with up to five cruise ships docking daily. During those times, visitors easily outnumber local residents.
In the three Alaskan communities I visited, I noticed a large number of older cars and buses. I guess the cost of bringing new vehicles to Alaska is pretty steep or maybe the cost of living is too high so most people can't afford a new car?
All the taxi cabs are Chrysler Caravan minivans from the early 2000s, no exception. The most popular taxicab company is called a "Sourdough" to pay tribute to the city's rich gold rush history. During the Klondike Gold Rush, prospectors who survived a winter in the Yukon were nicknamed "Sourdoughs" due to the sourdough starter they used to make bread, as it was the single most effective food that helped them survive the harsh winter conditions.
Over time, the term "Sourdough" became synonymous with resilience, resourcefulness, and a connection to Alaska's frontier spirit.
4. Fishing Industry.
For decades, fishing has been the backbone of Southeast Alaska's economy.
Interestingly, native Alaskans are exempt from fishing restrictions, allowing them to fish freely, including offshore, while commercial and recreational fishermen must go at least 12 miles from shore.
As much as it seems fun to most of us, fishing in Alaska is dangerous due to harsh waters, unpredictable weather, and vast distances between safe harbours, making it a high-risk profession.
A lesser-known fact is that approximately 25 fishermen die annually in Alaskan waters, a very unfortunate reality that receives relatively little attention.
When visiting Ketchikan, a must-see attraction is the historic Creek Street, known for its past as the "red light district" or the place where both salmon and men went for spawning. Operating between 1903 and 1953, the street was home to around 30 brothels at its peak, catering to fishermen and other town clientele.
To put this into perspective, fishermen earned just $1 daily, while brothel services cost $3-4, with top earners like Dolly Arthur charging $5-6. Dolly, a legendary figure, always aimed to make $100 daily. So you do the math. However, to be fair to Dolly, not all income came from prostitution. Selling whiskey during Prohibition was even more profitable - a whopping $10 per shot.
Dolly's hard work paid off, and by her "retirement" at 70, she had accumulated significant wealth. With no spouse or children to inherit her fortune, she generously donated her entire estate to the city of Ketchikan. Her home was converted into a museum, a signature attraction in town.
While single men bluntly strolled along the boardwalk of Creek Street visiting the various brothels, married men chose a more covert way, using the Married Man's Trail that went through the woods. The women working in the brothels could easily identify their married clients by the mud on their boots.
5. Businesses Owned by Native Alaskans.
Hoonah, a thriving Tlingit town of 900 residents, is a great example of the success of local Alaskan communities.
While fishing is once again the largest industry in Southeast Alaska, it was not always the case. In the mid-1900s, overfishing led to restrictions and quotas, prompting native communities like Hoonah to switch to other industries including tourism.
The Huna Totem Corporation, founded by over 1,300 Alaskan natives, primarily Tlingit descendants, now manages tourism in Hoonah. They focus on authentic experiences, including local food, crafts, history, and tribal dancing, as well as more mainstream attractions.
One of the most popular attractions catering to adrenaline junkies is North America's largest zip line, opened in 2007.
Icy Straight Point, the only privately owned cruise ship port, can accommodate two large cruise ships or even more with tender boats, making Hoonah a popular destination in the summer.
Two gondola lifts operate in Hoonah: one takes guests to a mountain summit, while the other is a complimentary people-mover between cruise ship docks.
Visitors enjoy various activities while in Hoonah, including whale watching, jeep tours, and tree trekking, always something for everyone.
The former salmon cannery, once producing 150,000 cans annually, has been transformed into a history museum with a dozen gift stores, three restaurants, and a Salvation Army-operated donut kiosk.
The BuyAlaska program, launched in the 1990s, promotes local small businesses and authentic Alaskan experiences, with Hoonah playing a significant role in achieving this goal for the state's one million-plus annual visitors.
Another good example, Ward Cove in Ketchikan demonstrates how local communities can adapt to change and thrive through tourism. Previously a bustling lumber mill, the facility was closed when logging became prohibited in the Tongass National Forest in 1997. However, forward-looking thinkers transformed the site into a cruise ship dock, also offering a decent food and shopping experience.
6. Totem Poles.
Totem poles can be found throughout the Pacific Northwest, including Alaska, Washington State, British Columbia, and Yukon, Canada. However, Ketchikan and its neighbouring borough, Saxman, hosts the world's largest collection of totem poles.
The Indigenous Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian peoples created totem poles to share their oral histories and significant events as they had no written language.
Totem poles serve as a family crest, symbolizing identity and heritage.
Contrary to popular belief, totem poles were never worshipped or considered sacred objects.
In the humid Pacific Northwest climate, untreated totem poles typically last only 70 years, making preserved museum pieces rare where temperature and humidity can remain stable.
Totem pole art features intricate carvings of natural and mythological creatures.
The word "Hoonah" means "protected from the north wind" in the Tlingit language. The community was established here after their historical settlement was destroyed by a sudden advance of a glacier in the mid-1700s.
Native communities like Hoonah continue their traditions, including fishing, hunting, crafting, and dancing, while teaching their native language in schools.
The native peoples in Southeast Alaska, having an abundance of food and resources, had time to develop elaborate designs in their clothing, masks, drums, and daily life.
7. Russian Orthodox Heritage.
I think my story wouldn't be complete without mentioning the Russian orthodox church's significant presence in Alaska.
Despite the fact that the US purchased Alaska from Russia in 1867, Russian influence persisted throughout the 19th century and until the 1917 revolution through its church.
Remarkably, not only had Russia maintained its influence over the native population in the capital town of Sitka, formerly known as "Noviy Archangelsk," but also expanded the russian orthodox church to other Alaskan communities, including Hoonah in 1880.
The church remained a vital part of Alaskan life, with Russian priests earning twice as much as American schoolteachers, according to Hannah Breece's memoir "A Schoolteacher in Old Alaska". By the way, a must-read for all those interested in the history of Alaska.
The Russian orthodox church was often the only alternative to traditional tribal religions for native peoples. Bishop Innocent, a representative of the Russian czar, played a crucial role in the church's popularity, by learning the Tlingit language.
Bishop Innocent established a school for native children in Sitka, created an alphabet for the Tlingit oral language, and built a strong relationship with the locals, allowing the Orthodox religion to coexist with tribal traditions.
The St. Michael's Church in Sitka, once a Russian orthodox church (now an American Orthodox Church), is now a popular tourist attraction and a symbol of Alaska's Russian legacy. Of course, there is a gift store nearby called "Dedushka Moroz" ("Grandfather Frost"). Wondering how well it's been fairing since the full-scale Russian invasion of Ukraine in 2022.
Although the church was destroyed by fire in 1966, locals, including natives, rescued the paintings and artifacts, and an exact replica was rebuilt in its place.
8. Thriving Gardens.
Southeast Alaska, located in the vast Tongass National Forest, is characterized by a wet and humid climate, earning its reputation as the largest temperate rainforest on Earth.
Ketchikan holds the title of Alaska's wettest city, receiving a remarkable 150 inches of rainfall annually, followed closely by Sitka with an average of 105 inches per year.
The coastal communities of Ketchikan, Sitka, and Hoonah have little to no snow in the winter, but the surrounding mountains receive abundant snowfall. Hence, the large number of glaciers.
The mild and moist climate, influenced by the warm Japanese Current, creates an ideal environment for diverse vegetation to thrive, including different berries, rhubarb, cucumbers, and fruits like pears, apples, and cherries.
Prior to the arrival of Russian fur traders in the 1700s, farming in the native tribes was virtually non-existent in Alaska. The Russians introduced various fruits and vegetables, with potatoes being their particular favourite.
The unique combination of long summer days and a lot of rainfall helps with rapid growth, resulting in a short but generous harvest season.
9. Housing Shortage.
Southeast Alaska's coastal communities face a severe shortage of real estate due to the unique geography, where a narrow strip of buildable land is sandwiched between the ocean and towering mountains.
This scarcity has caused those densely populated towns like Ketchikan to build uphill. The houses are stacked upon each other, and many are accessible only by ladders.
Many homes don't even have driveways.
There is even a funicular connecting the Creek Street tourist area with Cape Fox Lodge. By the way, they have a cafe in case you want to enjoy some of the best views in town.
Sitka faces similar challenges, forcing many people to live on boats due to the housing shortage. The town has only 14 miles of paved roads, with a recent addition of 5 miles of gravel road to support new development.
The Tlingit people's land is no longer sold but leased for 99 years.
The humid climate takes a toll on timber houses, leaving many in a state of disrepair.
Recently, a mudslide occurred on August 25, 2024, due to heavy rains (over 9 inches in 24 hours), highlighting the region's vulnerability to natural disasters such as landslides and erosions.
I hope you enjoyed this article and added Alaska to your bucket list!
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