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Experience Morocco in Full Colour (Part 1)
8/05/2024First time in Morocco?" a border security officer asked me with a strained smile. "Oh, is that an Arc'teryx bag you have? Can you lift it so I can show it to my colleague?" "Hey buddy, this is the bag I was talking about, from Canada." His colleague suddenly brightened up with excitement as my bag most certainly broke the monotony of his stamping routine. I stood there, waiting to get my passport back, unsure how much I should worry about my bag or any other possessions in this country. "Welcome to Morocco," said the officer cheerfully, "You'll like it." And I certainly did: Morocco turned out to be one of the most exotic and culturally rich places I've ever visited.
Morocco, a vibrant country located at the northwest tip of Africa, has been a cultural melting pot for centuries, sitting at the crossroads of African, Arab, and European civilizations. This unique blend is reflected in its rich history, architecture, languages, and of course food.
Despite facing economic challenges, including a significant wealth gap, Morocco has made strides in recent years, with a growing economy and increasing foreign investment. Morocco prides itself on well-maintained roads, modern cities, and a vast and reliable public transportation network. It even recently launched the first high-speed train on the African continent - Al Boraq which means "lightning" in Arabic.
Perhaps most striking, however, is the country's incredible diversity of landscapes, from the snow-capped Atlas Mountains to the vast Sahara Desert, and from bustling cities like Marrakech and Casablanca to remote towns in the Rif Mountains where many farmers illegally grow hashish and rely on it as a cash crop.
In Morocco, colours aren’t random, they have a way of capturing the soul of a place. Hence, I decided to share my experiences through a palette of colours, each one having a unique meaning for every place I explored. I hope you like this vibrant journey!
Marrakesh (Red).
Marrakesh is known as the "Red City" due to the reddish-brown colour of its buildings, walls, and fortifications, which are made from local red sandstone and earth.
A medina, with its labyrinthine alleys, vibrant souks, and hidden riads is the heart and soul of Marrakesh. You will want to get lost in the narrow streets, discover hidden gems, and absorb the unique atmosphere. From colourful markets and ancient mosques to delicious street food and warm smiles, a medina can be a sensory overload that nevertheless leaves a memorable impression on all who wander through its ancient walls.
The design of a medina was intended to confuse and disorient potential invaders. Narrow streets made it difficult for enemy armies to navigate and advance, allowing the city's defenders to attack from unexpected angles.
Sadly, numerous buildings, including old mosques, remain covered in scaffolding as a result of the devastating 6.8-magnitude earthquake that struck Morocco in September 2023.
Though the traffic in a medina appears chaotic and even dangerous at first glance, it's surprisingly orderly due to the constant vigilance of drivers on mopeds, scooters, bicycles, donkeys, mules, wheelbarrows, carts, dollies, and other unconventional modes of transportation, who are all perpetually on the lookout for potential hazards.
I once had a chance to witness an adrenaline-fueled traffic “accident”: a moped driver dared to run over someone's foot. But don't worry, no actual harm was done, just a healthy dose of eloquent feedback delivered by a victim with exemplary Middle Eastern politeness and a nose-to-nose distance. Just another day in the chaotic yet somehow harmonious world of medina traffic.
In a medina, smell is an important part of the sensory experience. Trust your nose to guide you through different parts of the old city: overpowering animal skin and hides means you're in a tannery, iron scents reveal a metal foundry, and sweet, waxy, oily aromas lead to leather finishing workshops.
The air in a medina is often filled with a captivating blend of smells from aromatic spices, sweet pastries, savoury chicken shawarma with Algerian sauce, and the unmistakable stink of horse urine and donkey shit, creating a truly immersive experience.
Speaking of donkeys. As one merchant said, they are the “Ferraris of Berbers”. These adorable animals are peaceful, calm, and nimble, don’t require much food or water, take extra heavy loads, and don’t mind waiting for hours for their masters.
Marrakesh's streets are filled with stray cats, some of which are undeniably charming. However, it's important to use caution and avoid petting them, as they can carry diseases that could be transmitted to humans.
Souks are an integral part of the medina in Marrakesh. They are vibrant and bustling marketplaces that can be overwhelming, but also incredibly exciting to explore.
Not all souks are created equal. The ones closest to Jamaa El-Fna Square are a shopper's paradise, offering upscale goods like intricate lamps, plush rugs, and glittering jewelry, all geared toward foreign, mostly English and French-speaking tourists. But if you venture further inside the medina, you'll find the “real” souks, where locals buy fresh and inexpensive meat, eggs, vegetables, and livestock - these are authentic and unglamorized souks that I liked the most.
Many elderly people, especially in poor souks, resort to begging or selling handmade goods and herbs to make ends meet. The country's lack of social security support for vulnerable populations means that you will likely see many people struggling financially.
Don’t blame me if I didn’t warn you that simply showing interest in a vendor's merchandise can and will likely lead to an unexpected purchase. Moroccan vendors are the best! They use their disarming friendliness, openness, and engaging chit-chat to make friends with you and make you feel like you're doing them a favour by buying something from them.
Bargaining is not only expected but also encouraged by vendors, who may even offer to teach you how to negotiate using a notebook or calculator. I experienced it first-hand when buying a jacket. The initial price they quote is often influenced by their perception of you, based on your appearance.
But watch out for vendors who team up with others or locals to steer you toward their stores. They might use tactics like emphasizing the store's 'one-of-a-kind' nature or creating a false sense of urgency, like limited-time availability. Be prepared for these “brokers” to ask for a cash payment, so consider negotiating the price of their service upfront to avoid surprises.
Before taking photos of vendors or their products, ask if they are okay with it. You might get a few No’s, but most will be happy to cooperate, and some may even see it as an opportunity to get a free promotion, asking you to tag their business online or share a photo with them.
I innocently asked one of the vendors about the book he was reading (it was the Quran), and before I knew it, I was trapped in a passionate 15-minute monologue, in French, about the excellence of Morocco's Islamic schools. Given my limited language, I understood that scholars come from far and wide to study Islam in Morocco and that the schools have been the best in the Muslim world.
The Medersa Ben Yussef, once a dormitory to one of the Islamic schools, has been converted into a museum now. Despite its unassuming exterior, it features an astonishing 134 rooms!
To show appreciation for Moroccan culture and religion, we learned to dress modestly by covering our arms, shoulders, and legs. While a headscarf for women is not required in urban areas, it's very important to be respectful. Regrettably, some visitors, primarily from Europe and North America, disregarded these guidelines and wore inappropriate, too-open clothing.
Marrakesh presents a culinary scene with excellent restaurants, but street food is just as delicious and offers great value at a fraction of the cost. The signature Moroccan dish, tagine, is a flavourful stew made with meat and vegetables. We took a cooking class and our chef told us that Moroccans eat tagine 3-4 times a day and no two tagines are the same. Interestingly, Moroccans never cook tagine in the oven, as it can dry out the vegetables. Instead, they cook it on a stovetop using gas or electricity or use a pressure cooker to prepare this favourite dish.
An authentic tagine requires a rich blend of spices, but don't expect it to be spicy. We were advised not to buy pre-mixed spice blends from vendors (too late) as they tend to overcharge tourists. One kilogram of spices should cost around 100 Dirham (10 Euro), but tourists often pay 5-10 times more. Locals, however, prefer to buy individual spices and create their custom blends, using up to 36 different spices, whereas pre-mixed versions sold on markets usually contain only the most common 5-6 spices. What's more, Moroccans always buy whole spices and grind them at home using a coffee grinder to release the full flavours and aromas.
Another essential ingredient in Moroccan cuisine is pickled fruits and vegetables including a pickled lemon used in a tagine. Moroccans preserve lemons by marinating them in a mixture of salt and water for a minimum of one month, with the highest quality lemons being aged for up to five years. These organically fermented lemons contain natural antibiotics. Those pickled lemons tourists typically buy at markets are often only a week or two weeks old and are preserved using chemicals. What’s interesting, Moroccans rely solely on these marinated lemons for cooking, never using cheese instead.
This story wouldn’t be complete without mentioning Moroccan mint tea, a beloved national tradition, offering a refreshing and sweet respite from the bustling streets. This popular drink is a blend of strong black tea, an abundance of fresh mint leaves, and a lot, I mean I lot of sugar. The tea needs to be poured from high above to create bubbles.
While I’m not a big fan of mint and black tea in general, I fell in love with Moroccan mint tea. With every sip, the sweetness of the sugar balances perfectly with the cooling nature of the mint, making Moroccan mint tea a true delight for the senses. It’s also a social thing that creates a bonding experience between a host and a guest.
High Atlast (Blue).
The High Atlas stretches across the country, a rugged and breathtakingly beautiful expanse of snow-capped peaks, beautiful valleys, and ancient fortified villages called “kasbah”.
This majestic mountain range is the tallest in northern Africa, with its highest peak, Jbel Toubkal reaching an impressive 4,167 meters (13,671 feet) into the sky. Hence, the blue colour I chose for this region.
The High Atlas has long been a natural barrier, separating the fertile coastal lands from the harsh and dry Sahara Desert. It’s also home to the resilient Berber people, who have thrived in this unforgiving environment for centuries.
After the hustle and bustle of Marrakesh, these mountains are a truly unique and awe-inspiring destination.
The way to get from Marrakesh to the Sahara Desert is through the serpentine Route National 9 that winds its way through the majestic High Atlas mountains. This engineering marvel, known as the Tizi n'Tichka Pass, was built by the French in the 1920s, revolutionizing travel and trade between the two regions. Before its construction, the journey was long and strenuous, taken only by the most skilled travellers.
The winter months usually bring heavy snowfall to this road, so I was a bit worried about renting a car and driving through this route. But this year's weather has been a surprise exception, with barely any snow lying on the ground and unseasonably warm conditions. This unfortunately meant a widespread drought that devastated North Africa in 2024 and impacted olive oil prices across the globe.
To conserve water, many of Morocco's hammams, traditional public bathhouses that play a vital role in both daily life and religious rituals, have been forced to limit their operations to just three days a week.
The construction of the road brought significant changes to the region. People - farmers, herders, and craftsmen - used to live in harmony with the rugged landscape. The road provided access to previously unknown food, goods and services, stimulating economic growth and cultural exchange.
As the road through the High Atlas improved and became a state-of-the-art highway with few long curves, the High Atlas has been attracting visitors from around the world to its breathtaking scenery and rich cultural heritage. If I ever get the chance to return to Morocco, I'd love to embark on an extended, multi-day hiking adventure through the mountains, immersing myself in their natural beauty and rich heritage.
Today, the people of the High Atlas live in a world shaped by the road. They continue to farm, herd, and craft, but now they have access to markets, schools, and healthcare. Look at this football (soccer) field in a small valley surrounded by tall mountain peaks!
As we travelled the Tizi n'Tichka Pass, we witnessed the majestic scenery, bustling markets, and warm hospitality of the High Atlas. We were absolutely blown away by the incredible service we received when we stopped for local chicken shawarma in one of the towns - it was hands-down one of the best culinary experiences in the country!
Vendors line the roadside, selling minerals to passing travellers. A closer look however reveals that most of the "gemstones" are actually quartz crystals painted in bright colours. While not naturally occurring gemstones, these vibrant quartz crystals still make for a colourful souvenir and provide a vital income source for local people.
We also saw the ancient villages, nestled on mountain slopes, and the modern towns, thriving along the roadside. It’s remarkable to see the resilience of the Berber people, who continue to thrive in this breathtaking corner of Morocco.
Continue reading - Part 2 and Part 3.
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